What kind of oil for ltr450

All 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oils which I have found are not energy-conserving and can be recommended for general motorcycle use. It is commonly mis-stated that "SJ and SL oils have friction modifiers which will cause wet clutch slippage. ZDDP itself is a friction modifier. The real issue is to avoid getting the friction so low, with very thin oils containing extra amounts of friction modifiers, that clutches will slip under normal use.

Stay away from energy conserving oils and you should be fine, if your clutch is in good working order. Synthetic or Conventional What about synthetic vs.

All motor oils have several special additives formulated into the oil to protect from corrosion and wear, plus detergents to keep combustion products in the oil. For normal non-extreme use, "dino" oils protect as well as the synthetic oils. However, if you plan to race, run at extremely high temperatures, or plan to extend oil-change intervals, or simply want the best, then a synthetic or semi-synthetic may be your best choice.

Real World Test Results Are there any "real world" examples of long motorcycle engine life using automotive oils? No valve clearance adjustments were required after the initial one at 16, miles. And a dyno test against the same model with only 6, miles showed torque and horsepower virtually identical. The , mile bike was even used for some racing. In a subsequent follow-up, the same CBR had passed , miles and was still going strong! Plus, many motorcyclists have emailed me with their very positive results using nothing but automotive oils for years in a variety of rides.

Oils have changed over the past 10 years, but that just means we need to be more careful in our choices. Frequency Asked Questions What is a reasonable oil-change interval?

Most manuals recommend not to exceed 8, miles after break-in. But short-trip riding is considered severe service and the most common oil change interval is 3, to 4, miles. However, a long trip is the easiest service for the oil and going 6, to 8, miles between changes while on a cross-country ride is routine. Also, the use of synthetic oils can easily double the oil-change interval.

Will changing the oil even more frequently, like every 1, miles, prolong the life of the engine? Not very likely, because even at 3, to 4, miles, the oil and additives are not degraded very much. Changing more often just wastes money. What about the claims that motorcycle-specific oils contain "special polymers which are resistant to breakdown caused by motorcycle transmissions?

Oils usually require the addition of polymers, called VI improvers, to create a multi-viscosity oil, like 10W Whether it is a motorcycle oil or an automotive oil, all polymers are subject to some degradation in the transmission. Full synthetic oils tend to have less polymer than conventional oils and therefore degrade less. Why are motorcycle oils so much more expensive than automotive oils?

Cost of doing business is higher per quart of motorcycle oil. Large oil companies make so much more product that their profit margin per quart does not have to be so high. That's why the newer motorcycle oils being marketed by some oil companies are only marginally more expensive than their automotive counterparts.

What about the claims by specialty motorcycle oil manufacturers, that their oil is better? That's a good one. Next time you hear that line, simply ask, "What evidence do you have?

If you do get any, please let me know! I don't believe that there is any. Now, armed with all this information, you are ready to make your choice between automotive oil and motorcycle oil. Either will work fine. Your motorcycle probably cannot tell any difference. There are many riders, the author included, who use nothing but good quality automotive motor oils. There also are many who use nothing but motorcycle oils. All indications are that both choices work equally well because motorcycle engines are designed so well that the oil really doesn't make any measurable difference.

Addendum In the past several years, various reports went around regarding independent studies that showed "automotive" oils that are not energy-conserving EC work just as well as motorcycle-specific oil and in many cases better. In former revisions to this article I listed the oils I found locally Houston, Tx that were 10w40 and heavier and not energy-conserving. I've discontinued that as it adds little value. All one needs to do is look at the back of the oil container where the lower half of the identification circle will have the words "energy conserving" if it is.

Don't use those in wet clutch motorcycle applications, as they may cause clutch slippage. If the lower half of that circle is blank, as all 10w40 and heavier oils should, that means it is NOT energy conserving and should be fine in wet clutch applications. Heavy-Duty Oils My favorite oils and the ones I most mostly recommend for motorcycle use, are the "heavy-duty" oils. They are commonly misunderstood, and often referred to as "diesel oils. They are currently closer in formulation to the motorcycle specific oils and to the "SG" oils that many motorcycle makers recommend.

Following are some examples of these oils, generally 15w40 oils by industry convention. There may be several other 15w40 oils that I am not familiar with. However, I have heard from several VFR owners still using it with favorable results. Therefore, YMMV. Mobil naturally recommends their motorcycle Mobil One. It is not energy-conserving and according to Shell performs competitively with Mobil Delvac One full synthtetic, which means it offers even more protection than does Mobil One 15w A number of motorcyclists have reported to me good results so far with his use of the new Synthetic Rotella-T.

I put it in my own VFR at my last oil change. Delvac One should be an excellent motorcycle oil but is generally available only at truck stops or in commercial quantities.

For those who may have connections with a long-haul trucking operation, where Delvac One is known to be used in oil change intervals up to , miles, or even more, you may want to try it if the price is right. There are a number of other synthetic and semi-synthetic oils available and I have no reason to believe they are in any way inferior. Just follow the advice and use one which is not energy conserving. Important Note: Be sure and use the recommended viscosity range, e.

In general, to protect your motor use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer's guidelines. For example, 20w50 is better in warm weather than 10w40, because it gives you a thicker oil cushion between bearing surfaces at operating temperature. For racing, a thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection.

I personally believe in these oils and use nothing else in my motorcycles. Have one to sell? Sell now - Have one to sell? Shop with confidence. Top Rated Plus. Trusted seller, fast shipping, and easy returns. Learn more - Top Rated Plus - opens in a new window or tab. Get the item you ordered or get your money back. Learn more - eBay Money Back Guarantee - opens in a new window or tab.

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